Long distance footpaths
There are a number of long distance footpaths in the United Kingdom. It is a great country for hikers to explore. There might not be much wilderness or wildlife left, but there are plenty of wide open spaces and expansive vistas to enjoy.
The Wainwright path stretches across the north of England between St Bees on the west coast and Robin Hood’s Bay on the east coast. It travels across the fells of the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors. The distance covered is 190 miles or 300 km.
The distance and terrain makes it an irresistible attraction to those who are drawn to wild spaces and slightly crazy endurance challenges. I discovered that I was one of these people in 2021. These things can creep up on you. When I entered my first standard road marathon in 2017, I honestly thought it would be a once-off. Back then I thought 26.2 miles was a slightly crazy distance to run! How much my perspective has changed! These days I also strictly do not run on tarmac or concrete (unless unavoidable).
My journey to St Bees
On the 2nd of April 2022 I found myself amongst a small crowd of runners on the beach in St Bees. It was a perfect morning. Just look at the photos!
Photo credit NoLimits Photography
We were about to set off on the Silva Northern Traverse. This is a non-stop endurance event from coast to coast across the north of England. I felt incredibly lucky to be there! This is not something that happens by accident, for sure.
In September 2021 I stood was at the start of the Dragon’s Back Race in Conwy Castle. I was full of hope and anticipation, eager to reach Cardiff Castle. This would have been a journey of 380km over 6 days. I made it to end of day 4. It was epic.
Dragon’s Back Race 2021: An epic journey to beyond your limits
The influence of friends
The best part of these journeys are the people you meet and the friends you make. Sophie (Littlefair) told me about Northern Traverse. It sounded like the perfect challenge, possibly one I could complete. These thoughts occurred whilst my knee was still swollen after Dragon’s Back Race. With swollen knee and the optimism of an ultra runner, I entered.
Another friend from Dragon’s Back Race recommended a coach. I checked this out and signed up with Jen Scotney. Coaching with Jen has made a huge difference to me. It allowed me to relax about rest days and easy runs. I had lots of those! The swollen knee impacted on what I could do in preparation for Northern Traverse. It was a bit of a gamble. In December 2021 I was unable to run at all! It was the month of long hike substitutions.
Race plan
300km is a long way, right? Non-stop – I did not even entertain the idea! I think I was still surprised to observe people actually doing this as the journey unfolded!
My objectives were:
- Complete the journey
- Avoid making my right knee worse
- Avoid a new injury
- Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!
I approached the race as a stage race, rather than a non-stop race. It was a multi day race, even for the winners. The cut-offs were generous enough for me to have a plan that would honour my circadian rhythm. I planned to move as far and as fast as possible during daylight hours and take some rest whilst it was dark. Sleep is never guaranteed and can become more elusive as exhaustion increases.
I drew the route with details of support points and cutoff times onto an A4 sheet. This was stuck to the wall for a month before the race. I could ponder it and slowly let the details sink in. Stupidly, I then forgot to take a picture of my map! I met new friends, Jackie and Adam, at registration. Jackie let me take a picture of her laminated route cards.
St Bees to Patterdale
44.63 miles / 71.8km; 7956 ft / 2424 m elevation
I did this in 11 hours 19 minutes between 10:30 and 21:49.
The first section was along the coast path and then turned inland towards the fells of the Lake District. I felt good. This is my happy place. Running was smooth and easy.
The first technical section was around Ennerdale water. Up to here my pace was quite fast, but this was planned. I was nervous about moving across unknown mountainous terrain in the dark and wanted to get as far as possible before nightfall.
Photo credit NoLimitsPhotography
There are many rewards for putting energy into the pursuit of these challenges. A top one for me is to simply be in these wide open spaces. Only my own two feet can get me here. Here I can breathe more easily and think more freely.
Then there is the movement. Sometimes it jars, but often there is a feeling of flowing through the landscape. There is nothing else to do. The task is simple: keep moving forward. I breathe it all in and flow in pleasure and gratitude. This makes perfect sense to me.
Photo credit Jackie Stretton.
Girl gang to Patterdale
As I was getting a coffee at The Sky Hi Cafe, I saw Sophie and Jackie run past. Jenny was with them as well. I gulped down a few mouth fulls to get the caffeine effect and set off to catch them. The journey from there to Patterdale was simply delightful! We chatted and took lots of photos. Jackie takes even more photos than me!
We enjoyed some lovely food at the support point in Rosthwaite. Soup and sandwiches, orange wedges and yummy chocolate brownies were among the delights. After that there were a couple of big climbs. We passed Grisedale Tarn just after our head torches came out. It was magical. We stopped for a few moments, mesmerized by the stillness and the beauty. With nightfall and a clearing sky, it got cold rapidly.
Patterdale support point was rammed! There was hardly room to turn around. I was finished and looked on in astonished perplexity at others getting ready to carry on through the night. How? Part of me was tempted to try. This was where I would say goodbye to Sophie and Jackie. Watching them layer up made me realise it was not an option. I probably underpacked, even for stopping overnight. The cold creeps into one’s bones and exhaustion makes it so much worse.
I put on all my layers and lay down to rest in the tent. Sleep was elusive, but I got a couple of hours at least. By 4am I had enough though, got up, ate some porridge and got ready to continue.
Patterdale to Kirkby Stephen
36.18 miles / 58.22 km; 6417ft / 1955 m elevation
I did this in 11 hours and 45 mins.
Patterdale to Haweswater
I left at 5 am. It was still dark. The route started with a climb. I was on my own and loved it. I took a few wrong turns. This added distance and at least a couple of extra hills.
Day broke as I passed Angle Tarn. A couple of geese flew overhead. Their calls filled the quiet sky. There were red deer on the slopes of Rest Dodd. It was another perfect day in the mountains. Clear skies and not a breath wind. There was snow atop Kidsty Pike, the highest point on the route. My legs felt good as I made my way down to Hawes Water.
Haweswater to Shap
The route along Haweswater had small technical sections and longer runnable sections. It was warm in the baking sun. It was glorious. Somewhere along the water Richy Johnson caught up with me. We were moving at a similar pace and shared the journey to Shap. Richy’s friendly company definitely cheered the way for me. My memory of that section is a bit vague… maybe it was tiredness and the effect of following after the splendour of sunrise in the mountains.
My feet were sore as we entered Shap and I was glad to get to the support point. The routine of feet and food took the usual half hour or so. Hot food was a delicious chilli. Yum!
Shap to Kirkby Stephen
I left on my own, but soon my pace fell in with Richy again. It was pleasant going across as we chatted our way along the undulating landscape.
We discovered that we had a very similar plan for completing the journey east. Move by day and rest at night, more or less. We decided to stick together to Kirkby Stephen. Somewhere along those undulating hills I hit my low point of the day. It happens, everyday. It lasts a little while, but always passes. Eating, drinking, singing or sighing can all help to get me through the daily dip.
At some point our jog became a chug, then a hike and finally a walk. Kirkby Stephen hides until you walk right into it. It was on this section that we met Kasia.
Kirkby Stephen
It was cold and windy. The cold had crept into my bones. Inside and layered up, I was still unable to warm up. Hot pieces of pizza were delicious, but didn’t warm me up either. All I wanted to do was lie down and sleep.
I couldn’t face the tents. There was some ambiguity in the rules, so I wondered about getting an actual bed to sleep in. We were right on the edge of town. There was a hostel with lots of availability along the route. To my relief the answer was yes, I could sleep in the hostel. I was in bed by 8pm and slept deeply.
Kirkby Stephen to Richmond
33.85 mile / 54.5 km; 6056 ft / 1845 m elevation
I did this in 11 hours and 7 mins.
Into the Dales
Richy and I decided to set off together at 5.30am. It was a wet and stormy night. We planned to start as the rain stopped. The day started with a long slow climb towards Nine Standards Rigg. The ground underfoot was super boggy! My hiking poles literally became extra legs that helped to keep me from going for an unintentional cold water dip. Some bogs were more riverlike and I counted down to the jump across. It was fun! I still marvel at how I managed this without my morning coffee.
Visibility was poor. I could only imagine what it would be like to get lost on these bogs in the dark or the mist… By this time it was very obvious that Richy knew the way. He had recce’d all of the route! Not having been able to recce ANY of it was one of my concerns. How absolutely lucky was I to have teamed up with Richy. Since Haweswater I have not taken one step too many. Richy did not even need a map or a compass to find his way across this bog in the mist!
The Grand old Duke of York
As we made our way up and down the Dales, I remembered Jackie’s song for getting up the hills! Here we were in Yorkshire, hiking up and down the hills. I was loving every minute of it.
The long way to Reeth
Distance and terrain can be deceptive. After the tough climbs of the morning, we followed a wide and easy downhill track. This went along Old Gang Beck and we passed the ruins of Old Gang Lead Smelting Mill. Did this place inspire the Mordor of the Lord of the Rings? The landscape most certainly bear some scars.
Reeth could not come soon enough. We needed to do our feet and food routine. I was also desperate for the loo!
Reeth did not disappoint. I had my first coffee of the day! This was a surprising discovery, that I could function without caffeine. I also had a delicious hot meal at the Black Bull Hotel on the town square. It was a vegan curry with chunky chips.
Food is like magic. Rest equally so. Sleep is super magic. Without all this magic, I would struggle to cover 300km in any amount of time. Richy and I often ponder the reality of those who go all the way to Robin Hood’s Bay with only food magic. Many would have finished by now.
After about 40 minutes in Reeth, we are ready and rearing to go. The support point at Richmond will be our next stop. The path is easy and the hills are gentler.
Resting in Richmond
The day was not done, but I certainly was. The food was great and I found a very comfy sofa in the corner. It was also a great spot for observing the constant activity. Kudos to the event team. They do not get any rest either. Tired and hungry runners come and go around the clock. Additionally, the winds had caused some havoc the night before. Tents were blewn off the ground in Kirkby Stephen and Richmond. The one in Richmond landed on a power line and made it into the news. That was the news on the grapevine that reached my ears.
There were still many daylight hours left. We arrived before 5pm. Night time travel was going to be inevitable. Sleeping was to be attempted in the changing room. The floors were concrete and the lights were movement sensitive. Needless to say, I just lay there for about 4 hours or so and then was eager to get going again.
Richmond to The Lion Inn
43.26 miles / 69.6 km, 5381ft / 1640m elevation
I did this in 14 hours and 23 minutes
A walk in the dark
I left at half past midnight after coffee and two bowls of porridge with jam. I felt good and was able to jog the first 8 kilometres. Richy had set off at midnight. I wanted to catch him up before I lost my way in the maze of farmers fields between Richmond and the A19. I did indeed catch up with him after about 8 kilometres and learnt at least twice that it was better to stay with someone who know where they are going. This is especially true in the dark.
After about 6 hours on endless roads and across countless farmers fields, we reached the 24 hours service station on the A19. It was time for coffee, hot food and feet up as we enjoyed the view of the dual carriage way getting busier. This was our most treacherous crossing on the entire coast to coast. Better to be rested and fuelled up before taking it on!
The bags under my eyes have never been this big. I think the oedema from my feet simply transferred to my face whilst I was lying down.
Onto the North York Moors
We made our way through some woodland and then onto the moors. Some very friendly locals stopped for chats. I was glad to have my hiking poles to lean on for these rather longish conversations. I am an early riser, but the start time from Richmond was rather extreme.
The skies were grey and the wind was biting cold and getting stronger. Luckily it was a tailwind! I was in my element, high on a combination of exhaustion, endorphins, fresh air and good company.
I have no idea what this trig point was called… all that mattered was to keep going. Richy knew the way, so I never even looked at the map. Next was Lord Stones. His wife would meet him there. He disappeared into the distance on the downhill there.
Three sisters and then the dismantled Railway
We were in high spirits after Lord Stones. Caffeine, cake and a bit of dot watching worked like magic for me. Sophie and Jackie had finished at 3am whilst I was trudging across farmers field. Amazing! I was so chuffed for them both. This was even faster than Sophie’s plan A that would have finished at 6am.
There are many paradoxes in ultra running. They are marvellous when you lean into them. Pain offers the opportunity for distraction. This can lead to increased connection with others and even hilarity. Tiredness offers the opportunity to let go. When the things you can control are fewer, there is greater freedom to simply enjoy being in the moment.
Playful movement
I was feeling good and moving well. A strong power hike was working for me and I left my companions, Richy and Kasia behind. This did not last long. Richy broke into a jog and came speeding past me. This motivated me to explore the possibility for myself. We were on a fairly flat, wide, very runnable track. A long rest was planned for the support point at The Lion Inn. Therefore there was no harm in emptying the tank completely. We did some ultra marathon intervals for entertainment: Slow jog for 1 km, power hike for 1 km.
The Lion Inn
Pretty impressive! The event team are also completing an ultra marathon. They were stationed at this location for 4 days. In this tent, I ate and drank the following: Hot chocolate, coffee, hot leek and potato soup, jacket potato with vegetarian chilli, hot pizza, chocolate brownies, orange wedges, egg sandwiches. The soundtrack was Disney films and the crew were singing and dancing along!
The loo experience also warrants a mention. I regret not taking a picture. There are many things to think about. Focus and concentration becomes challenging this far in. The loos were portable rental toilets out in the wind, help down with big stakes hammered into the ground.
A 12 hour stop here would be exhausting, so we decided to push on to Glaisdale. We managed to book rooms in a hotel with breakfast included.
The Lion Inn to Glaisdale
9.67 mile / 15.56 km, 909ft / 277m elevation
I did this in 2 hours and 55 minutes.
We set off at about 4.30pm, guessing at a distance of about 7 miles. When you expect 7 miles and end up doing 9.6 miles on the edge of hypothermia and with very sore feet, it can feel like a nightmare. It can also be an opportunity to create a quiet space in the mind, to lean into all that is beautiful around and feel gratitude for the incredible gift of being alive with many choices.
Glaisdale to Robin Hood’s Bay
19.37 miles / 31.2 km; 2789ft / 850m elevation
I did this in 5 hours and 30 minutes
The stop in Glaisdale was wonderful! I slept for 9 hours at least and managed to warm up by sitting right up next to the radiator. We couldn’t set off too early, or we would have missed breakfast! It was another beautiful day, we had refreshed legs and only 31 km to go. At 8:30 we were read to try and get to Robin Hood’s Bay before 14.30. Our overall time would then be under 100hours.
The route was winding, varied and picturesque. After the woodland along the Little Beck River, we traversed over some bogs again. They were only mild bogs and easy to navigate in the bright sunshine after the practice we had on Nine Standards Rigg. Those was extreme bogs. Once again, I did not take any pictures. I must have been having too much fun jumping over bogs. Of course, my poles would have been out, so my hand were full.
Feet up!
It was a tremendous experience and I felt a huge sense of satisfaction. There were some things I hoped for, but dared not articulate until they happened. I hoped to finish and I did, despite my right knee. My knee was no worse and I had a blast!I secretly hoped that moving well would make my knee better. This was, after all, part of the goal of my preparation and training: Moving to get better.
It is fair to expect that some physical niggles may occur when engaging in these endurance endeavours. After picking up a major niggle on Dragon’s Back Race, I invested a lot into finding out what may have contributed to the issue and how to find solutions. It all came down to learning how to move better. Some bits needed strengthening, other bits needed loosening and then I needed to bring it all together in a balanced and integrated flow! My yoga practise that started in 2016 most definitely plays an integral part on my movement journey. Posture and movement is so easily taken for granted. Both have powerful implications for our health. They can be medicine or poison.
To my surprise, my knees were almost matching in size at the end! The left knee did not get bigger, the right knee got smaller! The ultra marathon made my overuse injury better because I moved my body better.
I call none of this exercise. It is my joy and pleasure to move through the landscape.
Where to next?
Fundraiser
For me, running outside and particularly on trails, is an experience and an expression of freedom. This is why I decided to set up a fundraiser for the charity Freetorunngo.
Thank you!
