Montane Dragon’s Back Race: what, where, how, who?
Read what the Dragon’s Back Race is all about on the event website.
Here I tell my story.
Dragon’s Back Race Day 0: Cardiff to Conwy
It is Sunday 5 September 2021 and the last day before the start of Montane Dragon’s Back Race 2021. My bags are packed. I am up early to make my way from Swansea to Cardiff for the event bus to Conwy. This race symbolises one simple focus for me on a number of levels: ‘It is a journey home’.
The bus trip is great. I get to meet some other dragons and watch the landscape over which we will run, pass by. At the front of the bus there is lively conversation with Russel, Sophie (Bennet), Anthony (Furze) and Jer.
Upon arrival it is time to register, sort my kit one final time before bag drop, then the evening meal and a good night’s sleep before the start early Monday morning.
Dragon’s Back Race Day 1: Conwy Castle to Nant Gwynant
49km, 3800m elevation
Conwy Castle and the Carneddau
It’s an early start. Anticipation fills the air as 367 runners gather inside the walls of Conwy Castle. I am as ready as I could possibly be for this attempt at Dragon’s Back Race. I have made the most of every opportunity within my grasp to train and learn and prepare. Of course, more would have been desirable, but this race happens within the context of our individual lives. I look around me and wish success for each one of us who made it to the start line.
Blogs about my how and why to the start line
Mountain Running in Wales: Training for Dragon’s Back Race (Part 1)
Training for Dragon’s Back Race (Part 2): Mountain Running in Wales.
Countdown to Dragon’s Back Race: Reflections and final preparations.
I also wish for each one to define their own success. Just getting here is already more than I could have dreamt of or imagined. Is this really happening?
Then we are off on a walk out of the castle and along the city walls. The first dibber awaits and the clock starts as the route continues out into the hills. It is a longstanding habit of mine to go out too fast and I must have done it again. I was chatting to Katie Mills on the way out of the castle and then stupidly tried to keep up with her! It didn’t feel too hard at the time, but didn’t last long anyhow. The morning was cool and misty and the Carneddau quite runnable.
The descent down Pen yr Ole Wen was good fun, followed by a jog along Llyn Ogwen to the support point. All was going well thus far, down to being at the support point when I needed the loo. I set off from the support point two hours ahead of the cutoff time.
Tryfan
The most difficult part of the day (and the entire race) lay ahead that afternoon. The sky was clear and the sun was beating down hot. I was chatting to another Dragon on the way up Tryfan, but cannot remember who!!! It was a very pleasant conversation, but I struggle with names and some of the journey has already become a bit of a blur. The baking heat took its toll on many. I also felt nauseated and even cried on the mountainside. The tears brought relief somehow. I could breathe deeper again. Maybe it is a letting go of tensions too, to cry.
Pieter offered me a salt tablet. I mis packed my salt tablets into the camp bag, rather than my drop bag and was low on supplies for this hottest of afternoons. The heat was spectacular and so were the views. The one sort of forced more frequent appreciation stops of the other.
A feeling of triumph at the top of Tryfan and then onwards and over the Glyderau. This part proceeded uneventfully until the descent to Pen-Y-Pass. I struggled to find a good line and found myself picking a path all alone. I still made it to Pen-Y-Pass with time enough to buy a drink.
Snowdon horseshoe
What lay ahead was the terrain that I found terrifying. CRIB GOCH. It was the first section I recce’d with RAW adventures at the beginning of June. It made most sense to start recce-ing from the North, not taking anything for granted. Completing day 1 is already an immense ultra marathon in the mountains! June now seemed a long time ago. Even the beginning of day 1 seemed like a long time ago for my tired legs and aching feet.
A pleasant conversation with Rhydian on the track towards Crib Goch provided some distraction. Fortuitously, I hiked into the back of Steve and Nathan just before Crib Goch. Steve was on the June recce too and remembered my fear. They kindly offered to go up and across the ridge with me. On the race photos we were in a crowd going across, but I literally can only remember the two of them. I think I was not only stressed out by the terrain, but also still affected by social anxiety that grips me when I am in large groups of strangers.
I can still taste the relief of getting across Crib Goch. The rest of the peaks of the Snowdon horseshoe was like an exhausting formality between the serious business of Crib Goch and camp. I remember the delightful company of Sophie Pooley, David and Huw, as well as Sam and Kezia.
Hill horrificous to camp
The day concluded with the most horrendous downhill of the entire course. My relief was huge to still make it down before dark, albeit only just. I collapsed in an exhausted heap in front of my tent at about 8.20. I simply could not believe how tough it was and how tired I was. But then it was time to focus. Tomorrow is another day of highs and lows, of summits and valleys, of mile upon mile of Snowdonia beauty.
Dragon’s Back Race Day 2: Nant Gwynant to Dolgellau
59km, 3400m elevation
My alarm goes off at 4.30. There is half hour to get dressed, breakfast at 5 with study of map. Then it is time for bag packing and ablutions (hopefully), aiming to set off at 6.30 latest.
I got away at 6.23. This would become very significant as the day became relentlessly hot and long.
Day two was the only day I managed to recce in full. This gave me tremendous confidence as well as restraint. It is a huge day with many summits and lots of challenging and technical terrain. Gnarly is the best descriptive word I’ve heard for the mountains of day two: the Moelwyn and the Rhynigodd.
Cnicht and the Moelwyns
I spend a bit of time moving with my tent mate Bethan. She leaves me behind as we get to the steeper slopes of Cnicht, our first climb. The views at the top are spectacular. I take a few minutes to sit down and take it in. I also call my son Matthew. He has just started secondary school and was not impressed with his mom running off into the mountains. He doesn’t answer, but news is that all is good, he is off to school early to meet his friends. This is a good. Just yesterday he called me, to help him find his school jumper!
Bum slide off Cnicht becomes obligatory fun to preserve what is left of the quads. It is getting hot already and the water at Llyn Cwm-y-Foel gives a welcome cool down before taking on the Moelwyns. The descent off the Moelwyns and moving across the Vale of Ffestiniog is extremely hot. I run/hike this section with Daniel. When Lewis joins, we become a dragon bus of three to the water stop at the reservoir. It is hot! We find quite lot of water and are able to stay hydrated. Sun protection is also topped up. We wait for each other around these small but vital actions that inevitably slows you down. This dragon bus and many others are the highlights of my time on the journey!
Getting to the support point in time!
We leave the water point just after 12. We all need a wee, which is great as a sign of being hydrated, but when I emerge from behind my bush they are gone. My energy is gone too and I enter a long low that lasts and intensifies to the support point at Cwm Bychan. The terrain is quite runnable, but the heat makes it difficult to run without my heart rate shooting up.
Many dragon buses pass me. I cannot get on. The route passes by beautiful lakes. There is no time to dip. The going is slow, but I am going. I am not sure whether I can make the cut-off at this speed, but I cannot pick it up. It takes focus on what I can do. One foot in front of the other. Drink. Eat. Enjoy the views. Breathe. Keep going. Just keep going. Time ticks on… too fast. I keep moving… too slow.
It’s hot and the Rhinogs await. Timing out will save me the effort! No, I want to get to Cardiff! On and on it goes. It is becoming more difficult to drink and impossible to eat. Too much effort, I’ll do it a bit later. No, drink now. Eat. Just a bite. It takes so long…
Then the support point comes into sight. I can make it. It’s downhill now and the route is marked to see us in. I just keep moving. It will be enough. I will make it and with 25 minutes to spare. I give myself 10-15 minutes at the support point. It is enough to get water, re-supply food and find a shoulder to cry on. The team is amazing!
Rhynigodd
There is a shaded stream just beyond the support point where many dragons take a break after racing through to make the cut-off time. Quite a few just sit down in the stream, shoes and all. I see Lewis and Daniel again. I also see Nathan and Steve. When I leave the stream it feels as though I am right at the back. Up the Roman steps I pass Filip who is struggling like me. He keeps moving forward with slow determination.
A cool breeze and some shade makes the way so much easier. David catches up with me and we make good pace to Llyn Du. There I get on the dragon bus with Steve and Nathan. On the way over Rhinog Fawr we pick up the brothers Lee, Josh and Rupert, as well as Chris Collins. Steve has recce’d an alternative descent off Rhinog Fawr that avoids the boulder field, as well as an alternative ascent of Rhinog Fach, that is on the shade side of the mountain. We go that way and I think it saved my day 2.
After the summit of Rhinog Fach navigation is easy along the wall. The way is long and there is no water. Many dragons ran out of water on this section and I was no exception. I get to use my filter straw as we come off the mountain and find running water before the mandatory route begins.
To camp
Day two finish is within reach. It’s all down hill now and the last few miles is completely flat on track and tarmac. Will I even be able to run? Not without a decent drink. Mattias and I decide to move together for a bit. We stop at the stream to refill our water bottles and get our head torches out. After this it is easier to keep our running legs moving and we make it all the way to camp for 21:09.
I am elated to have made day 2! Time to nourish with food, wash (of sorts) Dragon Mail (thank you!!!) and sleep! Tomorrow is another day of mountains and miles.
Dragon’s Back Race Day 3: Dolgellau to Ponterwyd, Ceredigion
70km, 3400m elevation
Cadair Idris to the water point
Having always been a morning person, getting out at 6 am really does not bother me much. The day is still cool. The 6 am dragon bus is full on day 3 as we wind our way up onto the slopes of Cadair Idris. At this time of day there is still energy enough to chat as well. I spend some time with Sam and then Sophie(Littlefair) before we get to the steeper parts of Cadair Idris.
Once again, it is a clear day and the views are simply breathtaking. There is nowhere else I would rather be than right here, right now! On the way down from the summit, I hook up with Nathan and Steve once again as we continue at a good and steady pace across the rest of the morning peaks.
I feel a twinge on my right knee as we descent through the heather and take time to stretch. One never forgets the agony of an angry IT band and I do what I can to ward off trouble. The stretching has good effect and I am able to stretch out my legs on the rest of the descent to the valley and then the water point.
Water point to Machynlleth
As I make my way up the hill out of the water point, I feel my energy dipping low again. Dylan comes along and we share a good few miles that distracts us from our tired legs. It is the ‘just keep going’ part of the day again. It is boiling hot again! Katy Mills passes me on the small road section. I haven’t seen her since day one and marvel at how fast and strong she moves. Truly inspiring!
For me it is a slow hot slog, but I feel proud of being able to stick at it. I remind myself how lucky I am to even be here, attempting this journey. As the road winds around the mountain, a cool breeze meets the dragon runners and there is a stream to boot. I sit down for a few minutes to eat an apple. The effect is spectacular! I meet up with Sophie (Littlefair) again and we climb Tarren Hendre together.
Machynlleth beckons, but first there is an out and back to the summit of Tarren y Gesail. It is fun for the opportunity it gives for dragons to cheer each other on! The descent to Machynlleth is longer than I remember from my recce. I dip into another low as the pain in my right knee announces itself again. More stretching with less effect follows.
Machynlleth
I think all dragon runners dream of Machynlleth. It is a bustling market town with many shops! I feel too tired to even go into a shop and wouldn’t know what to buy anyway. Food intake has been extremely challenging these last three days. However, I need something. Sophie (Littlefair) offers the solution with a Coca-Cola she bought but cannot drink. A cold drink saturated with sugar and caffeine: once you drink it, it is so obvious!
Then the support point. An oasis with chairs, food, water, toilets and a very cheerful support team. I also take a bit of time to stretch out under a shady tree. Just a bit of time though, because I am doubtful about my knee and suspect that the remaining miles may be very slow.
Machynlleth till dark
It is as I suspected. The knee pain can now be named, beyond a shadow of a doubt, as ilio-tibial band pain. I still want to believe that I could make it to Cardiff. I have to manage the knee and decide on a strategy: Adjust how I move to avoid pain for the rest of day 3. Visit the medical tent. Stretch. Hope it is better for day 4.
The afternoon proceeds with a power hike along a runnable track. My hiking poles help loads too. I get into a rhythm and enjoy the journey. There is a steady supply of dragon buses to follow. I fall off the back of many. My day 3 recce in July was cut short to just beyond Machynlleth due to a camper van problem. This is unknown territory for me.
Then I am alone at a junction. I get my map out for the first time to try figure out where I am. Lewis and a few others turn up and I move forward with them.
As soon as the route descends I fall behind. There is another summit before camp. I look around at the mountains and wonder which one it is. Shadows are getting long and light is dropping fast. I realise that I have to find a way to move faster. If not, I will be alone in the mountains in the dark and I will probably miss the 10pm cut-off. The combination of fear and pain spurs me on to run with my poles! I could move around the IT band pain. It is exhilirating! After the long hike, I am slightly rested and it feels like I am flying.
Summit and descent as night falls
I caught a dragon bus! Lewis was on it. So was Kate. There were a few others too, but I eventually covered most of the last hill and descent with Kate. It was with a huge sigh of relief when I dibbed into camp at 21:03.
The camp routine follows. Tonight I can actually eat! Dragon Mail lifts my spirits even higher. Exhaustion hits during my visit to the medical tent. I cannot stand up long enough for my knee to be taped completely. The tape is not a solution, just a bit of support. Poles, gait adjustment and stretching are the main interventions that help. I’ve done those. Phew!
Dragon’s Back Race Day 4: Through the Elan Valley
69km, 2300m elevation
Setting of from camp
Another 6 am dib out of camp. The morning is cool and misty and very pleasant. I chat with Chris Collins on the way out of camp. Then I hook up with Sophie (Littlefair) again for bits through the trees, across the tussocks and along a runnable track. She was the smiliest face on my journey and always a joy to encounter. I also got to meet the ‘men in white’ from day 3, but I’m still not great with names. I do remember they made me laugh!
Steady going to Elan Village
We had a bit of rain. The weather had finally turned good! I even managed to run downhill sections using the newly discovered pole technique. The running ability did not last and I was stopping and stretching, hobbling and hiking pretty much all the way from the little bridge early on in the day.
Other dragons faced their challenges of pain bravely! Ade dislocated his shoulder on the steep descent through the trees. He hiked a fair bit with the dislocated shoulder until Huw (an orthopaedic surgeon) relocated it for him. Huw also advised me on more effective stretches for my IT band. I went past Chris who was hobbling like me with pain like mine.
Day 4 unfolded across the undulating landscape of the Elan Valley. The dragon bus was visible for miles ahead, apart from a few moments when the mist descended. Tussocks slowed us down, but there was plenty of tarmac sections to make up for that.
I made steady progress, because the gradient of the landscape was mostly within the range of my adapted gait. I passed Mark a number of times on day 4. He was in pain with his feet. We did some sections together, but could not talk much. He is one of my heroes, I saw him finish in Cardiff. I saw him on day 4. Respect!
Support point
The last bit to the support point was just magical. The light was soft on the heather that filled the air with its smell. There was plenty of birdsong too. To top it off, I came into the support point with two hours till the cut-off time.
Here I saw Sophie (Bennett) and Anthony (Furze) again. Them passing me earlier in the day was a highlight. Sophie is one the brightest rays of sunshine on the hills! I was also glad to see Kate and hoped that her day was going well.
Over Drygarn Fawr
Leaving day 4 support point took me into a high rather than a low. The weather was cool with showers. Having missed three days of washing beyond a wipe down, I just allowed the heavens to do the job. Lovely!
Martin and I discovered we were moving at the same pace, so we hiked and chatted across Drygarn Fawr. We reminded each other to take in the views and even took a couple of minutes to sit down after the summit check point and took a few pictures.
The descent to the water point was a real challenge but I got there without making it impossible to continue along the road. A dragon bus with a few familiar faces came past, but I managed to get on for only a few brief strides.
More road and my valley of tears
I felt confident for day 4 as I left the water point. My hiking legs were fast enough and my heart rate has been low for a day and a half now. I felt strangely rested! Maybe I will be able to do day 5 across the Brecon Beacons? If only the knee wouldn’t hurt so much.
As I approached the trail section on the side of Cefn Fannog, a dragon bus caught up with me. Stevie and Simon were there amongst others. Somewhere we also picked up Kate into the bus. There were others, but I was slipping into my low of the day. The low seems to be and inevitability.
The terrain was tough underfoot and the camber was adverse for my IT band. It seemed to go on forever. I had to shuffle sideways, but I was going to get in to camp with the least aggravation possible to my knee. Slow and steady. In the moment. Hold onto hope for day 5.
Crying was necessary. Definitely in a heap on the mountain side, but only for a minute. The effect can be amazing. I just had to acknowledge the pain properly and let the tension of it out. Then I could carry on with new fervour and an ability to laugh!
More company on the last bit of road
The final stretch to camp was completed in great company and not without a good laugh. We were finding new ways to hobble and talked about food quite a bit! Martin had caught up with me again so we could pick up our conversation from earlier too.
Then I was on my own a bit until I caught up with Chris. It was the Chris with right IT band pain, just like me. Our conversation meandered a bit like the day’s route. Our mom’s, who sent us dragon mail each and every day featured. We compared notes about our gait adjustments. We even had a sensible conversation about maybe having to retire. Chris was the one who articulated it crystal clear whilst I was still in denial about the writing on the wall.
I haven’t felt this good all week and was desperate to run! I love to run! However, every time I tried, there was pain like a knife stabbing into my right knee. Paracetamol was never going to do the trick for that.
Chris’s wife turned up for support. It was so lovely to see her support for Chris and how proud she was of what he had already achieved.
Camp and being sensible
We got into camp at 8.25! I was very happy with that. I felt like I could eat three dinners and there was time enough to do that.
It seems ironic to talk about being sensible at the end of 4 ultra marathons in 4 days. I managed it though and retired from the race. It was quite easy. I know the Brecon Beacons. I knew and understood what was happening to my right knee. This decision would enable me to hopefully run again within a month and return to Conwy Castle in the future for another journey south.
The previous 4 days had already taught me that ultra-marathons are about finding a way to move forward. I have also discovered that they are designed to end in one of 3 ways: something breaks/time out/you get to the end. If getting to the end is more likely than the other two options put together, I am not sure that it really is an ultra-marathon.
In addition, there was a way for me to move forward. I was going to get to Cardiff, I just had to change my role. That was easy. There were many tired dragons and they needed cheering on. I was totally up for that!
Dragon’s Back Race Day 5: Into the Brecon Beacons National Park
I had my first lie on of the week. The bus for Llandovery only left at 6:45! There were four of us on the bus and at least one more IT band sufferer. It’s not called ‘runner’s knee’ for no reason.
I felt sad as I saw the other dragons runners start there journey east. However, my sleep was very disturbed the night before due to intense pain deep in my hip joints. It felt like my body was on fire. Maybe the IT band pain was just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.
I parked myself at the bakery on the corner in Llandover to cheer the dragon runners through. Becky was there too. She had also completed four full days and we both planned to stay with the race till Cardiff.
I then made my way home to Swansea. A very enthusiastic running buddy was free for the morning and came to pick me up. By the time I got home, I could not wait to start watching dots on the tracker. There were so many journeys to follow!
It was thoroughly addictive and I found myself cheering at the screen. By evening I was double screening. One screen for dots and one screen for finish line web cam. Signal disappeared on the final descent before calamity valley, which made the web cam or the results page the next stop.
Dragon Mail was sent and then another night’s fitful sleep.
Dragon’s Back Race Day 6: To Cardiff Castle
The plan for day 6 was to find dragons to cheer along their way and then go to the Castle to cheer them in. I managed to drag my husband Peter and my son Matthew along with me.
We went to the water point in Groes-wen at the White Cross Inn. Their enthusiasm quickly picked up once we got there. How can it not with the energy of the support team and the joy of the runners coming through? We stayed for an ale and an hour.
Our next stop was in Tongwynlais. There is a great Thai street food restaurant that overlooks the route. We had lunch there.
Then we went down to Cardiff Castle. I lived in Cardiff for 5 years. It was the first place I ever bought a house. I used to go jogging on the Taff trail, but have never been inside Cardiff Castle.
It was just brilliant to be able to be there, even if I did not make the entire journey by my own two feet. I was there to celebrate with the other dragons runners. Family and friends of other dragon runners were there.
It meant the world to me that my family came with me to share day 6.
Smiles from Peter and Matthew. We had a fun day out, surrounded by loads of inspiring people.
Will you marry me?
There were many beautiful moments in Cardiff Castle. Children running a parent to the finish. Long tearful hugs with loved ones. Friends embracing. Even a marriage proposal!
This is what Dragon’s Back Race has shown me again: People are moved by love, people move for the sake of love and love will show us the way to move forward. Individually and collectively.
When my husband and I decided to get married in 2019 we had no idea of the huge obstacle that lay ahead on our journey. I am British (dual nationality) and he is South African. The obstacle was the British border. Our experience has led me to raise funds for an immigration charity, The Joint Council for the Welfare of Immigrants. It is a legal charity that does vital work to bring the systemic change needed for a fair and just immigration system. You can read more about the amazing work they do on their website.
If you have read this far, please consider donating to my JustGiving page, or at least visit it to read our story.
Why Dragon’s Back Race?
During our months of needless and debilitating separation, I learnt much about the violence (mostly inflicted through dehumanising bureaucracy) at the UK border. One brave and intelligent Afghan boy wrote a book about his journey. His book, The Lightless Sky, inspired me to enter Dragon’s Back Race. I wanted to take on the most challenging event available to me. Dragon’s Back Race was perfect for that and more! It was also a perfect way for me to celebrate the country that I have come to call home. The mythical and magical land of Cymru.
My Dragon’s Back Race was a journey I could prepare for. I was well supported and cheered along the way. When things were tough I thought of the many journeys that are made for survival and in desperation.
My dream is for a world where such journeys are not needed. Supporting those who make those journeys must be a step in the right direction.
If I have one single dream it is this: that a child in the future will read this book and ask, ‘What was a refugee?’
We can change the world. All of us together. We can.
We can end this.
from ‘The Lightless Sky’ by Gulwali Passarlay
I also thought of all the families that are separated across the UK border. Countless children know one parent only on a screen. Imagine the ache of missing even one year of your child’s early life. Many couples miss year on year on year. You can read more about this on the website of ReuniteFamiliesUK.
Final words, finally
It is good to be home. It is good have a home. Diolch yn fawr Cymru!
It was good to go on a journey. It was epic! Thank you fellow dragon runners, the event team and family and friends for all your amazing support. Watch out for a wave of South African visitors!
I will be back.
